Recently, through a chance encounter, I had the opportunity to tour Shinjuku Ni-chome. First, I had a light drink at a gay bar, and then I dropped by a bar run by a woman considered the “master” of Shinjuku Ni-chome. The proprietress there certainly lived up to her reputation. She looked like a heavily made-up version of Hiroko Mama, the popular gay bar character from the TV drama “Aibou,” doubling her intimidating presence. However, she was incredibly charming and a rare presence who still conveys the allure of Shinjuku Ni-chome. Next, I went to a long-established show pub, considered synonymous with Shinjuku Ni-chome and boasting over 50 years of history, where I enjoyed a transvestite dance show.

About 30 years ago, as a fledgling, I helped with editing gay magazines like “Barazoku,” taking notes for gay roundtable discussions. The venue for the discussion was a bar in Shinjuku Ni-chome that resembled an attic. Back then, I had the impression that Shinjuku Ni-chome was a dark and gloomy place, but 30 years later, the atmosphere has changed dramatically. While not exactly cheerful, it has transformed into a lively and pleasant neighborhood.
The gays and transsexuals I met there seemed to find deep joy in living authentically, radiating a sense of fulfillment. That seemed to be what brightened the place. Perhaps that’s why every bar had a large number of female customers. Apparently, in recent years, more women are deliberately choosing to visit Shinjuku Ni-chome because it’s a safe and enjoyable place to drink.

“Whatever form it takes, it’s wonderful to see people living authentically.” I thought this many times while drinking with them. “But what about me? Am I living authentically?” I repeatedly asked myself this question in my head. While I don’t live with any strong dissatisfaction, there’s a lingering cloud in my heart that suggests I’m not living authentically. I want to live the rest of my life to the fullest, being true to myself, and die true to myself. (Kei Kitajima)

※Translating Japanese articles into English with AI